Do K-Beauty Products Need to Originating from South Korea?

Korean skincare, commonly known as "K-beauty," has surged in popularity globally, with South Korean cosmetics exports reaching £7.7 billion in 2023. However, the rise of non-Korean brands claiming K-beauty status has blurred the definition of what constitutes authentic K-beauty, prompting discussions about the implications for consumers and the industry as a whole.

Last updated: 09 October 2023 (BST)

What’s happening now

The K-beauty phenomenon has expanded beyond the borders of South Korea, influencing global skincare markets and inspiring brands worldwide to adopt K-beauty principles. However, as many of these brands are not manufactured in Korea, the line between authentic K-beauty and K-beauty-inspired products is becoming increasingly blurred. The K-beauty Industry Association has yet to establish a clear definition or protective designation for K-beauty, which raises questions about authenticity and consumer trust.

Key takeaways

K-beauty exports from South Korea reached £7.7 billion in 2023.
Companies like Seoul Ceuticals, based in the US, claim to offer authentic K-beauty despite not being Korean.
There is no official definition of K-beauty, leading to potential confusion for consumers.

Timeline: how we got here

Understanding the rise of K-beauty requires a brief look at its timeline:

2011: South Korea's cosmetics exports were approximately $650 million.
2017: Exports surged to $4 billion, marking a sixfold increase over six years.
2017: Seoul Ceuticals launched in the US, capitalising on the growing interest in K-beauty.
2023: K-beauty exports reached £7.7 billion, making South Korea the largest cosmetic exporter after France and the US.

What’s new vs what’s known

New today/this week

The ongoing debate surrounding the authenticity of K-beauty products continues, with increasing numbers of non-Korean brands entering the market. These brands often market themselves as K-beauty by sourcing ingredients from Korea, but they manufacture their products elsewhere, raising questions about the integrity of their claims.

What was already established

Since the early 2010s, K-beauty has been characterised by its multi-step skincare routines and innovative ingredients. Brands have relied on the reputation of South Korean skincare, which is known for its quality and efficacy. However, despite the absence of an official definition, the perception of K-beauty is still strongly tied to products that are manufactured in South Korea.

Impact for the UK

Consumers and households

For UK consumers, the blurring of K-beauty definitions raises concerns about product authenticity. With many consumers keen to try K-beauty products, the risk of purchasing counterfeit items has increased. Buyers may find themselves paying for subpar products that do not deliver the expected results.

Businesses and jobs

The influx of non-Korean K-beauty brands could impact UK businesses that aim to sell authentic K-beauty products. As competition increases, authentic brands may face challenges in maintaining their market share against cheaper, falsely branded alternatives. Some may even resort to sourcing ingredients from Korea without manufacturing there, complicating the competitive landscape.

Policy and regulation

In the absence of a clear regulatory framework governing K-beauty, the UK market may see continued confusion. The K-beauty Industry Association’s focus on promoting rather than regulating could lead to a saturation of the market with ambiguous products. Future consultations may be needed to establish clearer guidelines to protect consumers and uphold the integrity of K-beauty.

Numbers that matter

£7.7 billion: Total value of K-beauty exports in 2023.
20%: Projected increase in K-beauty exports for 2024 compared to 2023.
90%: The counterfeit rate found in a test purchase survey of K-beauty products in the US.
$280 million: Estimated value of counterfeit K-beauty products identified in the US market in 2024.

Definitions and jargon buster

K-beauty: A term used to describe South Korean beauty products known for their innovative ingredients and multi-step skincare routines.
KFDA: Korea Food & Drug Administration, the regulatory body that approves cosmetics in South Korea.
Counterfeit: Products that are fake and sold as genuine, often at lower prices.

How to think about the next steps

Near term (0–4 weeks)

Consumers should remain vigilant when purchasing K-beauty products, especially from online retailers. Checking product origins and verifying authenticity through trusted sources can help mitigate the risks associated with counterfeit items.

Medium term (1–6 months)

As the market for K-beauty continues to grow, it may prompt a shift in regulations and standards. Brands that wish to maintain authenticity will need to clearly communicate their manufacturing processes and ingredient sourcing to avoid misleading consumers.

Signals to watch

The emergence of new regulations governing K-beauty claims and product authenticity.
Changes in consumer buying behaviour, especially regarding online purchases.
Reports from the K-beauty Industry Association on market trends and counterfeit product rates.

Practical guidance

Do

Research brands before purchasing to ensure they have a legitimate K-beauty connection.
Purchase from reputable shops that verify product authenticity.
Stay updated on trends and reports concerning K-beauty products.

Don’t

Don’t assume all products claiming to be K-beauty are authentic.
Don’t ignore the importance of ingredient sourcing and product origins.
Don’t rely solely on price as an indicator of quality.

Checklist

Verify the manufacturer’s origin for K-beauty products.
Check for KFDA approval if available.
Look for customer reviews and feedback about the brand.
Choose retailers known for selling authentic K-beauty products.

Risks, caveats, and uncertainties

The lack of a clear definition for K-beauty presents a significant risk for consumers, who may inadvertently purchase counterfeit products. Furthermore, the absence of regulatory protections means that consumers must exercise caution when navigating the market. As the K-beauty sector evolves, the potential for misleading claims and counterfeit goods remains high, necessitating ongoing vigilance.

Bottom line

The K-beauty market is booming, but this success comes with challenges related to authenticity and consumer trust. As non-Korean brands claim K-beauty status, consumers must navigate a complex landscape to ensure they are purchasing genuine products. The future of K-beauty will depend on industry standards and consumer education to protect against counterfeit goods.

FAQs

What qualifies a product as K-beauty?

For a product to be considered K-beauty, it should ideally be manufactured in South Korea and meet KFDA standards. However, the definition remains vague, with no official designation currently in place.

Are K-beauty products safe?

Most K-beauty products undergo rigorous testing by the KFDA before they can be sold in Korea. However, it is essential to purchase from reputable sources to ensure product safety, particularly in the international market.

How can I identify counterfeit K-beauty products?

Look for signs such as poor packaging quality, unusual pricing, and lack of brand recognition. Purchasing from reputable retailers and checking for KFDA approval can help avoid counterfeit products.