What Life is Like in the Limbo Villages on the Russia-Finland Border?

The Zsar shopping centre in Finland, once bustling with Russian tourists seeking luxury goods, now stands eerily silent following the closure of the eastern border after the Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022. This drastic shift has left local communities grappling with economic changes and heightened security concerns, as the influence of Russia is still felt in the region.

Last updated: 29 October 2023 (BST)

The Decline of Cross-Border Tourism

The Zsar shopping centre, located just a mile from the Russian border, was established in 2018 to cater to the influx of Russian shoppers. It quickly became a destination for those seeking discounts on high-end brands like Nike and Karl Lagerfeld. However, the geopolitical landscape changed dramatically in February 2022 when Russia invaded Ukraine, leading to significant repercussions for businesses dependent on cross-border tourism.

Key Takeaways

• The Zsar shopping centre declared bankruptcy in 2022, just four years after opening.
• Finnish authorities closed the eastern border due to security concerns following the Russian invasion.
• Local communities, like Vaalimaa, now face economic challenges as tourism has dwindled.
• Increased military activity near the Finnish border raises security alarms.
• Future Russian aggression towards Finland remains a concern for local and NATO officials.

The Economic Impact of the Border Closure

The closure of the eastern border led to the immediate decline of the Zsar shopping centre, which went from thriving to deserted in a matter of months. The Finnish government’s decision was largely driven by security concerns, as the influx of Russian ‘refugees’ added to the complex dynamics of the border region.

Joel Linnainmäki, a research fellow at the Finnish Institute of International Affairs, highlights that the government remains cautious about any movements from the Russian side. “There’s been very little activity, just some individuals attempting to cross,” he notes, indicating a tense and uncertain atmosphere.

Vaalimaa: A Ghost Town

Once a vibrant checkpoint, Vaalimaa now feels like a ghost town. The nearby shopping centre is filled with surplus goods, particularly cleaning products and essentials, but customers are scarce. Items like Moomin Christmas ornaments remain untouched, symbolising the stark change in consumer behaviour since the border closure.

Despite the quiet, signs of Russian influence linger. The Vaalimaa shopping centre still displays products with Cyrillic scripts, and the area is marked by a heavy security presence, including barricades and surveillance signs. The contrast between the once-thriving commercial hub and its current state serves as a reminder of the ongoing geopolitical tensions.

Heightened Security Concerns

The Finnish government has taken measures to bolster security along its eastern border, notably constructing a ten-foot fence topped with barbed wire. While Joel Linnainmäki acknowledges that this barrier is primarily for security, he also points out its limitations in the event of a military invasion. “It’s not defensive in nature, and we’re not fortifying our border in the same style as the Baltic states are currently doing,” he explains.

Monitoring and Surveillance

In areas like Kurkela, which sits just seven miles south of Vaalimaa, residents are constantly reminded of their proximity to Russia. Bright yellow signs indicate a ‘border zone,’ and blue signs notify visitors of surveillance by border guards. The sense of being monitored adds to the unease in the area, as residents live in close quarters with their unpredictable neighbour.

Military Activity on the Russian Side

Recent satellite imagery has revealed a surge in Russian military activity just across the border. In Kamenka, approximately 35 miles from Finnish territory, new installations capable of housing thousands of troops have been constructed since February. This increase in military infrastructure raises alarms about potential future aggression towards Finland and the Baltic states.

Joel Linnainmäki notes that while Russia is currently focused on its military efforts in Ukraine, they are simultaneously preparing for potential future operations in the northwestern direction towards Finland. “Russia is building new infrastructure and preparing to have the capability or capacity to boost their forces,” he says, indicating a long-term threat that cannot be overlooked.

The Future of Finnish-Russian Relations

As the war in Ukraine continues, the potential for renewed Russian aggression towards Finland remains concerning. Many experts believe that once the conflict subsides, Russia may redirect its attention towards its border with Finland. The geopolitical implications are significant, especially for NATO and the Baltic states, which could find themselves in the crosshairs of Russian expansionism.

Joel Linnainmäki cautions that, depending on how the war concludes, Russia could free up its forces and reconstitute them along the Finnish border. “Finland is not the primary direction for Russia’s aggression, but if they see an opening in the Baltic states, they would have to account for Finland as well,” he explains.

The Local Community's Resilience

Despite the uncertainty and economic hardship, local communities like those in Kurkela continue to persevere. Residents maintain their country homes and live their lives in the shadow of the looming border. The picturesque landscape, filled with nature and tranquillity, stands in stark contrast to the geopolitical tensions just beyond the fence.

As they navigate their daily lives, these communities remain vigilant, aware of the complexities that define their proximity to Russia. The ongoing conflict in Ukraine and the resultant security measures have transformed their reality, making life near the border a delicate balancing act between peace and caution.

Conclusion: A New Normal

The transformation of the Zsar shopping centre from a thriving hub of cross-border commerce to a deserted space is a poignant reflection of the broader geopolitical changes affecting the region. As Finland grapples with the implications of its proximity to Russia, the future remains uncertain. The once-bustling border town of Vaalimaa now stands as a testament to the shifting dynamics of Eastern European security.

With the Russian military's increased presence and the ongoing war in Ukraine, Finnish authorities must remain vigilant. The spectre of conflict looms large, and while the border may currently be quiet, the potential for disruption and change is ever-present. How Finland navigates these challenges will be crucial in shaping its future and that of its neighbouring countries.

FAQs

What is the current status of the Zsar shopping centre?

The Zsar shopping centre has declared bankruptcy and now stands deserted, following the closure of the Finnish-Russian border due to the ongoing conflict in Ukraine.

Why was the eastern border closed?

The Finnish government closed the eastern border primarily due to security concerns stemming from the Russian invasion of Ukraine and the influx of Russian ‘refugees’ into Finland.

What security measures has Finland implemented along its border?

Finland has erected a ten-foot fence topped with barbed wire along sections of its eastern border, along with increased monitoring and surveillance to bolster security against potential threats from Russia.

What military activity has been detected near the Finnish border?

Recent satellite images show an increase in Russian military installations capable of housing thousands of troops, raising concerns about future aggression towards Finland and the Baltic states.

How are local communities coping with the changes?

Local communities near the border, such as those in Kurkela, continue to maintain their homes and lives, navigating the complexities of their proximity to Russia while remaining vigilant and aware of security issues.