Is Fashion Backtracking on Diversity According to the Ex-Vogue Boss?

Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has recently expressed concern over a resurgence in “anti-woke” and anti-diversity sentiments within the fashion industry. He fears that the industry may revert to a narrow definition of beauty that prioritises super-thin, European models, undermining the progress made towards inclusivity. Enninful has launched a new media platform, EE72, which aims to celebrate diversity, particularly featuring women over 50, as he continues to advocate for broader representation in fashion.

Last updated: 05 October 2023 (BST)

Key Takeaways

• Edward Enninful warns of a return to narrow beauty standards in fashion.
• His new platform, EE72, focuses on inclusivity and celebrates women over 50.
• The term "anti-woke" is gaining traction, often reflecting a backlash against diversity.
• Enninful's departure from British Vogue was a personal decision, not a fallout with Anna Wintour.
• Recent advertisements have sparked debates on beauty norms and representation.

The Context of Enninful’s Concerns

In a recent interview on BBC Radio 4's podcast Radical with Amol Rajan, Enninful highlighted the ongoing challenges in the fashion industry regarding representation. As the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, Enninful has always championed diversity, but he now senses a shift that could undermine years of progress. He stated, "I think we're potentially going back to an industry that's just sort of, 'one type is the norm, being European is the norm, being super-thin is the norm'." This statement resonates with a broader cultural conversation about body image and inclusivity.

The Anti-Woke Movement and Its Implications

The term "woke" has evolved significantly, often used to describe a heightened awareness of social issues, particularly those related to race and gender. However, as Enninful points out, it has also become a buzzword for a backlash against progressive ideals. He noted that "woke is a dirty word," indicating a growing sentiment that challenges the push for diversity and inclusivity. This anti-woke rhetoric is not just confined to fashion but reflects a wider political climate where anything perceived as "not normal" is under scrutiny.

Fashion Industry in Flux

Enninful describes the current state of the fashion industry as "in flux," suggesting that it is at a crossroads. With high street fashion adverts being banned for featuring "unhealthily thin" models, there are fears that the industry might revert to outdated beauty standards reminiscent of the early 2000s. This potential regression raises questions about the values that the fashion industry will uphold moving forward.

Enninful believes that the industry must take a clear stance on inclusivity. "The fashion industry has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for," he said. His new venture, EE72, aims to contribute to this ongoing dialogue by celebrating beauty in all its forms, particularly focusing on women over 50, a demographic often overlooked in mainstream fashion.

Introducing EE72: A New Chapter

EE72, named after the year of Enninful's birth, was launched to provide a platform that showcases diverse beauty and stories. Its inaugural print edition features Julia Roberts, a Hollywood star at 57, symbolising the beauty of aging and challenging conventional norms regarding attractiveness. Enninful’s vision for EE72 is to create a space that embraces inclusivity and represents the multifaceted nature of beauty in today’s world.

Reflections on His Time at British Vogue

Enninful's departure from British Vogue after a successful six-year tenure has been the subject of much speculation. He clarified that his exit was not due to any rift with Dame Anna Wintour, as some reports suggested. Instead, it was a decision he made to pursue new opportunities. "When I took the job, I gave myself five years and I did six," he explained, dispelling myths about a falling out. He emphasised that Wintour was supportive of his decision, recognising the risks involved in leaving a prestigious position.

Recent Controversies in Fashion Advertising

Enninful also weighed in on recent controversies surrounding fashion advertisements, such as the American Eagle campaign featuring Sydney Sweeney. Some critics interpreted the ad as perpetuating a racially superior ideal of beauty, while others viewed the backlash as exaggerated. Enninful suggested that the population is divided on these issues, indicating that beauty standards remain a contentious topic. "I thought people really read into it probably deeper than I would have," he remarked, acknowledging the complexity of public perception around beauty and representation.

The Future of Inclusivity in Fashion

As Enninful embarks on this new journey with EE72, the question remains: what does the future hold for inclusivity in the fashion industry? With the rise of anti-woke sentiment, will the industry revert to old ideals, or can it continue to evolve and embrace diversity? Enninful’s commitment to celebrating various forms of beauty may very well influence this trajectory. His perspective encourages a reconsideration of what beauty means in today’s society and who gets to define it.

Conclusion

Edward Enninful’s insights into the current state of the fashion industry underscore the ongoing battle for diversity and representation. As he launches his new platform, there is a renewed hope that the industry can embrace a broader definition of beauty, one that includes all shapes, sizes, and ages. The conversation about inclusivity is far from over, and Enninful’s work will likely play a crucial role in shaping its future. How will the fashion community respond to these calls for change, and will it stand firm against the tide of anti-diversity rhetoric? Only time will tell.

#FashionDiversity #Inclusivity #EdwardEnninful

FAQs

What is EE72?

EE72 is a new media platform launched by Edward Enninful, focusing on celebrating diverse beauty, particularly women over 50. It aims to promote inclusivity within the fashion industry.

Why did Edward Enninful leave British Vogue?

Enninful left British Vogue voluntarily after a successful six-year tenure, not due to any fallout with Anna Wintour. He made the decision to pursue new opportunities while maintaining a supportive relationship with Wintour.

What does "anti-woke" mean in the context of fashion?

"Anti-woke" refers to a cultural moment where sentiments against diversity and inclusivity are gaining traction, often characterised by a return to traditional beauty norms that favour a narrow definition of attractiveness.

Who is featured on the cover of EE72's first edition?

The first edition of EE72 features Julia Roberts, highlighting the beauty of women over 50 and challenging conventional beauty standards in fashion.

What recent controversy did Enninful discuss?

Enninful discussed the controversy surrounding a Sydney Sweeney advertisement for American Eagle, where the messaging was perceived by some as implying a racially superior ideal of beauty.